Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A miracle of nobility and aromatic complexity, with notes of apricots and white and yellow fruit, mind-blowing tension and purity on the palate, and above all a fabulous grace, harmony, and detail for this wine that normally plays hide-and-seek with us at this age. 19.5

Michael Schuster: Very grapefruit and guava nose; medium-full, moderately concentrated wine with a lively acidity; dry, lightly aromatic, relatively delicate flavor, keen, citrussy, long, but no great volume; lovely ripe fruit, considerable finesse, delicate complexity, long in the mouth, long to finish. But all on a restrained scale and lacking the projection and intensity of 2008, for example. 2018–30? 17/17.5