Andrew Jefford: woodland holly and ivy. The evident ripeness of the fruit, though, is underscored by an almost floral yellow-fruit note, as if some wayward berries of Viognier had found their way into the vat. On the palate, this is a glorious and giving wine: tobacco, red fruit, and floral perfumes, too, brimming in the glass. The ample tannins are almost Napa-like in their gentleness this year.