Andrew Jefford: sweet milk. There’s also some of the snipped privet you see in the 2009 (some tasters found petrol notes). On the palate, it’s almost startlingly large, broad-shouldered, extravagant, almost bruising, yet the acidity is relatively prominent, too, to the extent that (in context) you notice it more than the tannins. A singular wine, and slightly puzzling, yet there is much to enjoy as well, and it’s worth keeping longer in case the wine’s slight awkwardness is just a stage.