Jesús Barquín: Light golden yellow. Blurry nose with oxidation notes dominating but no biological evidence behind. The palate is not particularly well balanced, either. 80

Andrew Jefford: Full lemon-gold. Spadefuls of dripping, sliding, slithering seaweedy flor: classic Manzanilla enchantment. Lovely bready finesse here. Surely this is what en rama should be about: the bodega-fresh charm. On the palate, too, you almost feel you are drinking flor itself, rather than simply Manzanilla: a kind of seaside ultimate wine, nurtured and nourished to perfection and bottled as you might take a bodega sample. Bread, almond, green olive—they are all here. Bravo. | 96

Peter Liem: This is a sophisticated expression of long aging under flor, showing a nuanced complexity and elegantly refined texture. It’s kaleidoscopic in detail on the palate, persisting with long, multifaceted aromas that constantly refer back to a salinity of both noble flor aging and albariza soil. I don’t want to spit this. 95