Imagine the same wine a couple of decades down the line! More evaporation, more concentration, more wood aging; the influence of the sea breezes long forgotten—herewith an oxidative attrition in search of the perfect tension. To highlight, in other words, the magical acidity, but to prevent it from becoming volatile, clumsy, a little tired. For many, the 12-year-old works better; others celebrate this extraordinarily evocative poem in praise of the ethereal. Leather and libraries, old furniture, quite recently polished, and recollection, maybe good, more likely slightly shameful, of the headmaster’s study. Then coconut and even vanillin; grip and resonance; an austerity that can be born only of overindulgence.