Jesús Barquín: Straw yellow. The nose is dominated by the chero typical of Finos from El Puerto. There is personality here, a hint of roasted hazelnuts, dried fruit, and a very dry finish. 89

Andrew Jefford: Steel green-gold. Some saucisson and pine here; a little bit dry and high-toned, but not unappealing. Tangy, clean, and straightforward on the palate, lacking the freshness, definition, and intricacy for a top score. 84

Peter Liem: This is intensely saline in flavor, like crab roe and sea-urchin shells. It’s linear in build and focused in structure, its filtration making it feel lighter in body than expected. It’s lively and harmonious, and quite persistent on the finish. 88