Jesús Barquín: Chestnut, with copper hues; beautiful. The nose is very attractive, with wild herbs, baked sweet potato, toasty notes, clean. The palate is very dry, precise, and harmonious; caramel, refreshing acidity, great length. Excellent. 18

Andrew Jefford: Light, clear walnut with orange glints. Full, grainy, sweet, articulate, rounded, and enticing: lots of refined aromatic power here. It is both very clean and very symphonic, and the casks, happily, have not been allowed the upper hand. On the palate, this is hugely concentrated and swingingly, painfully, raspingly dry, all its liquid part sucked out by successive summers at North African latitudes in a quiet bodega, so that only the essences remain. It is another of those wines (like [Valdespino Coliseo Amontillado VORS 30 Years Old] and [Perez Barquero Amontillado 1905]) that have been siphoned from their blending destiny into bottle in order to wow the cognoscenti. It is aromatically purer than [Perez Barquero Amontillado 1905] and has been far more successfully cask-aged than [Valdespino Coliseo Amontillado VORS 30 Years Old]; whoever has attended to the needs of these casks down the years has done so with great assiduity. It is an Amontillado of great purity: As you sip, you can easily remember the flood of Fino that went into making it. It is indubitably wonderful and marvelous and awesome, but I would rather drink the wines I have given a slightly higher score to. As you see, though, this just has to be one of the highest. 18

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep amber, with a green glint to the rim; fine, aromatic, yet quite gentle in context, with a fresh, green edge on the nose; lovely, powerful, tight-knit toasted flavors, long, linear, and focused, with a searing rapier-like finish. Great power and depth—another wine to be treated with huge respect but better as part of a blend than on its own perhaps! 18