Neil Beckett:Only a shade less deep than the 1952; strong tawny, with a warm orange rim. Even fresher, more focused, and vibrant on the nose; complex, gently exotic, dried oranges stuck with cloves… but so harmonious, sophisticated, and subtle a tapestry that it would be impossible as well as irreverent to start unpicking it thread by thread. Elegant and supple on entry, like old lace, backed by dry, slightly leathery tannins. The fruit is fading gently away now, and it lacks the nuances that are still there to smell. Drink now. 17