Neil Beckett: Very deep ruby/mahogany, matt, opaque, holding its color to the very rim. Famously, but (at least for me) fabulously lifted nose—the kind of nose to make you believe in levitation. It ought to have been the kind of palate to make you believe in transportation, too, but sadly, both bottles were substandard. (I have had magnificant bottles on other occasions, but Gago confirmed that while the best bottles are still worthy of the wine’s stellar reputation, they are increasingly variable.) NS