Neil Beckett: Very deep, black/ruby; opaque. Intense, spicy, tangy nose, but black-fruited and cool; altogether more reminiscent of great young Hermitage. Great harmony on the palate, richly silky, with drippingly succulent, strikingly vivid fruit and suave tannins. Excellent length. Although the 1990 and ’91 are generally more highly regarded vintages, I find the former wine difficult to understand, a bit like much modern art, and find the 1992 better balanced and more elegant, less hard and strident. The others may settle and soften, but certainly at this stage, and for several years yet, I would find the 1992 more tempting. Drink to 2020. 17.5