Neil Beckett: Black/purple. An intense, finely focused nose, fresher if less rich than the great 1998. Elegant entry, instantly recognizable as a beautifully detailed, carefully extracted, classically styled wine. Still very youthful, but exquisitely made, with the precision and tension of a top Bordeaux or Northern Rhône (Latour or Chave) in a great vintage. A real thoroughbred. Drink to 2040. 18.5