Neil Beckett: Medium ruby red, with impressive brightness and clarity for its age and an even gradation toward the tawny rim. Lovely, old winey bouquet, with cedar composure, elegant and refined but still very vital. Lightly syrupy, supple on entry, still with very good integrity and intensity of flavor. No bitterness, no roughness, but a cashmere softness to the tannins and gentle decrescendo on the finish. Drink now. 17