Neil Beckett: Very deep ruby, almost opaque. Excitingly closed, but the incense hints at the holy of holies behind the heavy curtain. Elegant, silken refinement, but very well defined and taut, with a keener edge to the tannins, but not too sharp. Clean, fresh finish, if dry on the end. Good, but not flattered by the preceding 1998. Drink to 2025. 17