Neil Beckett: Black/purple, opaque, still with a crimson rim. Very focused on the nose. Cool and elegant on entry, with fabulous intensity and purity of fruit. Although this and the drier, grippier 2004 are both clearly very embryonic, and both will be fascinating to follow, I find this even more exciting, thanks to its exhilarating purity. Drink to 2035. 18.5