Neil Beckett: Black/purple, opaque, glass-staining. Magnificent, exotic, opulent nose: intense blackcurrant, blueberry, incense. Again, the hallmark, old-vine suavity of tannin: exquisitely refined. Gravity-defying grace and lightness on the palate, despite being completely saturated, with a bitter chocolate intensity on the finish. Will be fascinating to follow, for those lucky enough to do so, and is simply stunning now. (One of Penfolds’ first two en primeur releases.) Drink to 2040+. 19