Neil Beckett: Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Kalimna Shiraz The better of two bottles at the tasting was still a deep, intense ruby. There was a stemmy richness and some volatility on the nose, but it was still in good heart, with an old Burgundian feel; nice in its way. Refined and supple, softly chewy, lacking some definition and distinction, if still vibrant on the finish. But a third bottle—much better, indeed well-nigh perfect—at the closing dinner, made it clear what all the fuss has always been about: exquisite balance and harmony, with cashmere tannins. Even after 1970 and 1982 Latour, and 1982 Mouton Rothschild, this suffered not at all by comparison, since none was more sublime than this. The added dimension of greatness. Drink now. 19.5