Neil Beckett: 1998 Medium-deep ruby, fading a little toward the rim. Lovely immediacy to the nose: crushed raspberries, harmonious, refined, and subtle, with savory intrigue. Rich, supple, brisk acidity, fine-grain tannins. Anything it lacks in complexity it makes up for in integrity and purity of fruit. As Gago revealed, this is “the most natural wine in the whole group” (no added yeast, no new oak, no acid correction, unfined, unfiltered)—and it shows. Drink to 2015. 15.5