Simon Field: Deep near-mahogany coloring, nose redolent of walnuts and treacle. The palate confirms this to be a powerful and rich wine, malty and savory by turn, the core of sweetness perfectly integrated. Expressive and quite forthright: a good example of a wine that still has more growing up to do—in itself a good sign! 16.5

Richard Mayson: Deep center, mahogany hue showing considerable age. Quite intense, pungent, maderized even, with a slightly high-toned rustic quality. Rich and candied in style, displaying some fine old wines in the blend but lacking the poise of a really good 20-year-old. A rather lovely curiosity. 16

Margaret Rand: Nutty and weighty, chocolate and coffee flavors, rich and powerful. A big, long finish. Very impressive, with liveliness as well as subtlety and complexity. 18