Simon Field: Darker than many of its peers, with a correspondingly smoky, powerful nose. Slightly high-toned, a feature that translates on to the palate, affording layers of texture and a firmness of purpose, but scoring less well on elegance and refinement, which should be axiomatic to this category. 14.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-mahogany; green hue to the rim. Burnt, maderized character on the nose, like parkin on bonfire night. Full, caramelized fruit, plenty of secondary complexity, but lacking poise and direction. Finishes well. 14

Margaret Rand: A good finish, all nuts and vivid citrus peel. Palate clean and linear, with a lemon edge and a touch of smoke. Vivid and subtle. 16