Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, bright. A little closed on the nose, but good character. A bit disadvantaged by other wines in the lineup—fleshy and ripe—this is more bony and refined, but more like what Brunello was first conceived as. Real sour cherry, uppish acid, firm but ripe tannins. Needs time to develop. Drink from 2018. 17.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink, tawny rim. Intense, refined, mineral nose with cassis, cedar wood, and hints of coffee. Medium to full body with layered red fruit, clean and elegant, with a great mid-palate and long, gentle finish. Another classy Sangiovese, just lacking a bit of complexity. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Rather reedy fruit and some aromatic murk here; neither evidently ripe nor pristine on the nose. Earthy, vivid, lively, full; decent Italian red, but not a noble Brunello. 12.5