Nicolas Belfrage: Attractive color, tight-knit, only a hint of orange. Slightly floral on nose, but largely neutral, if clean. Good quality if slightly dilute fruit, with firm acid and slightly drying tannins. Has typicity but lacks oomph. Drink from 2013. 15

Stephen Brook: Lively sour-cherry nose if not very nuanced at present. Supple, juicy, rather forward, though there are fine-grained tannins to support the fruit. There’s an appealing spiciness, too, but not a great deal of concentration or persistence. Though initially appealing, the finish is lame and doesn’t suggest a strong future for the wine. 14

Andrew Jefford: Deep garnet. This has a slightly muddled aromatic profile. There are some things to like here (a tobacco-laden fullness), yet overall it is a little soupy and unfocused. Light, tight, crunchy, with vivacious central-palate red fruits coming together for a poised and concentrated finish. Satisfyingly classical on the palate, if a little short on allusive depths. 13.5