Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, somewhat evolved. Sweet cherry and undergrowth on the nose. Fairly typical of this vintage, with sweet, almost jammy fruit cut by adequate acidity and tannin. Typical without being inspired. Drink from 2016. 15.5

Bruno Besa: Garnet to pink; orange rim. Restrained, mature, complex nose, with smoked meat, dry roses, and small red fruits. Medium to full body with rich, sweet fruit and long, refined finish. A very good Sangiovese. 17

Andrew Jefford: Deep red, but relatively light and clear for this tasting. Light, warm, cereal grain; very nearly a touch of strawberry jam. Tangy, broad, simple, open; indeed, strawberry jam is not inappropriate as a palate allusion, yet I’m loath to dismiss the wine despite its simplicities. It’s as if the propitiousness of the place has just thrown in a handful of redeeming complexity at the very end. But I don’t think anyone has tried very hard here. 12