Jesús Barquín:Mahogany brown with amber rim. Cinnamon, spice, rhubarb tart on the nose. Then on the palate, an evident orange-peel flavor, together with a touch of bitterness in a context of marked concentration and acidity. Vino da meditazione. 94

Andrew Jefford:Relatively deeply colored compared to its peer group, with lots of bitter orange-peel fragrance, sweet herbal scents, and some wildflower perfumes, too; more ethereal than most of its peers. On the palate, it is sumptuous, smooth, intense, and dramatically perfumed, laden down with the same bitter-orange energy and floral sweetness that characterized the aromas. There’s a bitter-chocolate-and-orange extravagance to the finish. Dramatic and striking old Tawny, a very sweet wine that finishes almost dry, and a very fine 40 Year Old. Just drying a little bit on the finish. 94

Richard Mayson:Mid-deep autumnal hues; seemingly rather dried up on the nose, rather dusty fruit with a touch of rancio; rich and intensely sweet initially, very powerful mid-palate, with a long, intensely sweet, rather pruney finish. 89