Jesús Barquín:Ruby red with a brown-amber rim. Slightly vegetal and tarry on the nose, then spice and candied red fruit. Quite balanced on the palate, complex and with marked sweetness. Deliciously long. 93

Andrew Jefford:Light, translucent garnet with walnut glints. Refined, mentholated scents, with a creamysweet undertow very intimate and attractive. Stealthy and seductive on the palate, too, just tiptoeing onto the tongue in a way that is hard for fortified wines to achieve, then flooding it with sweet, dried-fruit richness redeemed by tobacco asperities and supported by some creamy unction, too. An outstanding 20 Year Old, the sort that makes you ask, “Why buy older?” 95

Richard Mayson:Good color, mid-deep core with an ambertawny rim; lifted and quite delicate on the nose, almost high-toned in style; similarly refined and delicate on the palate but without much richness, depth, or persistence on the finish. 86