Stephen Brook: Fairly deep red, with brick tones on the rim. The nose is evolved, with smoky, leathery, clove aromas, but it retains power and presence and complexity. The palate is still rich and sweet and very concentrated but shows quite pungent acidity. Though fresh, it lacks a little flesh and weight and remains angular; it’s interesting and full of character but not the most pleasurable of wines. Good length, but with a rasping, tart finish. 16