Stephen Brook: Deep red, with some signs of age. The nose, while leathery and cedary, still has intensity and brightness, and while clearly evolved, is not conspicuously tired. Though mediumbodied, the palate is concentrated and remains bright and lively; it’s still quite tannic but has ample acidity and a youthful cranberry character, as well as showing a light, chocolaty tone. It’s not that complex but has zest, finesse, and persistence. 17