Stephen Brook: This is a magnum of Mondavi’s debut Cabernet, and since there were apparently no magnum bottles available, Mondavi used instead a 2/5-gallon sparkling-wine bottle, the volume embossed at the base of the bottle. Deep to very deep red, with some browning. The nose is mushroomy and evidently quite elderly, with savory and even cabbagy tones. Though just mediumbodied, the palate is quite concentrated and remarkably fresh—far more positive than the nose—with a sweet core of cherry, cassis fruit and a touch of mint. It’s not that complex, but cool, stylish, and very long. 17