Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red in color. Vigorous, dark, earthy black fruits with lots of purity and persistence: graphite, coal, touch of ash. No shortage, or even trimming, of ripeness here: I’d guess the grapes have come in dimpled. Big, thick, mouth-coating palate, with softer tannic mass than some of its peers; lush and masterful, the dark black fruits coated amply with layer on layer of glycerol, as well as tannin and extract. Magnificent fortified wine with a long life ahead of it. Lots of fire at the core 18.5

Richard Mayson: Very deep opaque black color; thin purple rim. Closed, demure, yet with underlying dense berry fruit showing brooding power and intensity; fine, powerful ripe berry fruit with massive tannin build-up and structure in the mouth, a peacock’s-tail finish, and a very long future ahead. Already combines power and finesse. This is the real thing, or I will eat my hat! 19 Jancis Robinson: Blackish crimson with some blue. A rather wild nose reminiscent of buckwheat. Aggressive alcohol and tannin at the moment but like young Vintage Port, with raisins and dryness and dried herbs. Lots packed in there! Really interesting and clean. Smooth and elegant with a dry finish. On going back to it, I added half a point. Drink 2018–38 18.