Andrew Jefford: Deep tawny amber in color. Another casky, forceful fortified, with some spiritiness apparent. This has a less precise and allusive, slighty fuzzy aromatic profile than [Penfolds Grandfather Rare Tawny Aged 15 years]. Menthol, eucalpytus oil, rue, as well as moist, dried summer fruits: all very lovely things to smell in a glass of fortified wine. On the palate, the wine is tangy, rich, concentrated, a little bit obvious, without the sheer weight and unction and fruited density of [Quinta do Noval 1997 Colheita Tawny Port]. The acidity, thus, is a little overobtrusive. But there is much to like, nonetheless, and it is concentrated and provocative 14

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep garnet center with a browning tawny rim; some fresh and quite pure berry fruit still showing on the nose, quite rich with some power and intensity behind it; very full, rich, and quite suave. Some flesh and real depth of flavor here, with more than a hint of dark-chocolate concentration. Ripe tannic structure keeping it all together 17.5 Jancis Robinson: Looks like a very mature red Rhône. Smells not unlike a mature Châteauneuf from a very ripe vintage! Quite a bit of alcohol. Seems less alcoholic and less sweet than many in this fortified-wine tasting. Nice balance. Quite delicate. Would go well with cheese but perhaps not sweet enough for most desserts—though there is a Christmaspudding element to its very attractive flavor. Finishes dry. Just slightly drying. Drink 2005–25 18. :