Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque, with slightly oranging rim. Fresh linen and fruit cocktail on the nose. A mouthful of juicy fruit with firm but ripe tannins and good acidity allowing for a full-blooded finish of precision and length. Needs a bit of time, though. Drink from 2016. 16

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny rim. Mature black-fruit nose, with small black fruits, roasted meat, and Mediterranean herbs. Medium to full body, a touch rustic on the palate, yet a clean and very complex finish. Not the most refined effort, yet complex and generous. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Warm, leafy, dappled red fruits, and a floral note, too: enticing. On the palate, this is a big, rich, amply tannic, but rather creamy Brunello, with plenty of low-acid, amply ripe, reverberative flavors. A complex finish, too: nutty, leafy, roasty. It’s another wine I would love to drink and to own: hugely easy to like, yet hugely rewarding and even profound once you have it in the glass, like a great Pomerol or St-Emilion. And 100% Italian, 100% Brunello, in its dappled, faintly mushroomy woodland flavor repertoire. 18