Nicolas Belfrage: Deep/opaque. Blackberry and morello cherry on the nose. Chunky, solid wine, with very present if ripe tannins and a touch of peperoncino on the finish. Interesting, but not typical. Drink from 2016. 15

Bruno Besa: Black core to garnet rim. Mature nose, quite a lot of new oak at present, with clean red fruit, full body, mature and balanced, but the oak is dominating the taste this morning. Maybe in time the wood will integrate, but I doubt it. 15

Andrew Jefford: Dense black-red; one of the darkest. Sweet, oaky, and voluptuous: a lavish internationalist. Rich, dense, dark, and exciting wine, which won’t please the purists... but anyone with a nose and a mouth and an uncomplicated love for wine couldn’t fail to be seduced by this. Excellent, dense fruit qualities and superb tannins, too; lavish, generous, concentrated, resonant, and dense. I’m sure it will get more and more Brunello as the years go by, and this is a wine with such outstanding raw materials that you really need to give it the best part of a decade in the cellar. A glorious bottle of wine. 17.5