Nicolas Belfrage: Opaque. Dark chocolate and black coffee on the nose. Rich and syrupy on the palate, firm tannin/acid balance, and lashings of ripe fruit—almost too much of a good thing. Has the elements to develop well, though. Drink from 2018. 16

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink. Open, mature, black-fruit nose, with prunes, herbs, cedarwood and spices. Round, full-bodied palate, with mature black fruit and layered tannins. Long and clean finish. Well made and clean—a master of elegance. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Dark, dense black-red. A little bit toffeed, in truth; not great fruit handling. Deep, dark, dense, searching on the palate; the whole polyphenolic bit is fine, but this very impressive and statuesque wine does just lack a little fruit freshness and definition. Glorious skin extracts, nonetheless, and worth drinking for those alone; this is not common-or-garden red wine. 15