Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Dark chocolate and coffee on the nose, emphasized on the palate, where the attack is forceful, with good spread, and a determined finish of character, where the coffee notes are underlined. Drink from 2017. 16

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to ruby; pink rim. A touch rustic on the nose, with prunes and medicinal herbs, yet generous and complex. Medium to full body, with mature black fruit and a clean, round finish. A good effort, but not the most charming Brunello this morning. 17

Andrew Jefford: Dense, dark black-red. A bit murky and soupy on the nose. There’s a very generous palate to follow, with extravagant tannins. I have a lot of time for extravagant tannins, and if you give them the chance to express themselves on the tongue, they open and surrender some warm fruits. But overall this is not a successfully balanced and crafted wine; the fruit lacks precision, and the extraction has been brutal. Nonetheless, it is still worth your attention if you are tiring of trivial fruity wine. 13.5