Nicolas Belfrage: Cherry-berry aromas with oak involved, too. Rich, ripe, and intensely juicy in the mouth, with notes of garrigue and spice. The tannins are a bit on the chewy side at present, but should help to keep it thriving over the years. Drink from 2019. 92

Bruno Besa: Garnet to ruby. Open, mature, meaty nose, with raw beef, black and red fruits, hints of cedar wood and Mediterranean herbs. Medium to full body, with compact, layered red and black stonefruit. Clean with silky tannins and a balanced, fresh mint finale. Impeccable wine that needs cellaring but can also be enjoyed in its youth. 96

Andrew Jefford: Deep, clear black-red. Rather secondary and savory at this stage: dry curling leaves and a cardboard note, too. Not the most enticing aromatic profile we have looked at today. On the palate, however, this is a serious wine with plenty of depth and drive to it: vivid, spicy, fresh, searching. We look at a second bottle in case the aromas are notably better—which they are: no cardboard note, and in its place ample warm, dark fruits. This in fact is a grand bottle with plenty of sweep and depth to it: very serious Brunello and no excessive sweetness or warmth. Sumptuous, deep, resonant, and long; a superb mouthful. 91