Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Very rich, not quite as opulent as the Rieussec but finishing on a hint of youthful bitterness that is less buffered by liqueur-like sweetness than in some other samples. A wine of obvious refinement, with plenty of scope for improvement as it develops. 16

Michael Schuster: Orangey gold; closed, but mineral-marked nose; rich, concentrated wine, with a fresh acidity, but this feels on the softer side in the vintage; intensely sweet, surprisingly fleshy and broad in flavor given the level of Sauvignon and the nature of the year; rich and complex and liquorous, with the clear minerality to taste that there is on the nose. Fine Guiraud, fat in the vintage context, but with adequate supporting acidity behind the richness. Very nice. 2014–30. 17/17.5