Michael Schuster: (bottled 1900, rebottled 1986) Lustrous amber; slightly lackluster in bouquet (perhaps because this is not a vintage wine?): caramel, faint old wood, slightly “dry” to smell; rich, medium-sweet, faintly astringent in texture, and with the same faint woodiness to taste—a suggestion of more recent casks? Although a remarkable, and remarkably old, solera, this was actually the least harmonious of the day’s wines; medium-sweet, vigorous in acidity, concentrated in flavor, but just a bit pinched by its faint wood astringency—and shortened for the same reason. Intense but now lacking harmony and very slightly hot/ hard; goodish fruit length but with that slight edgy dryness here, too. A great rarity, but the only wine here showing a few wrinkles. NS