Nicolas Belfrage: Virtually opaque. Flat nose. Again, concentrated rich fruit but without the acid backbone to carry the wine through—tends to spread out and get lost. All the rest is brilliant, but firmer structure needed on finish for length. Drink from 2013. 14

Stephen Brook: Modern-style Brunello, with distinct aromas of torrefaction. Rich and velvety, sumptuous and plump, with splendid concentration and depth of fruit and some charred oak. Perhaps it lacks some typicity and purity, but the tannins are formidable without being too extracted, and the fruit quality is exceptional. Good length. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep, near-opaque black-red. Hugely attractive aromatic profile: beguiling, super-ripe red fruits matched by a lush, sweet baseline creaminess. This fills every contour and attaches every dongle. After that very crowd-pleasing, come-hither aromatic profile, this is a little more classically austere on the palate, though still ample and generously delivered. Overall, the flavors are slightly stewy, slightly stomping, slightly muddled, but you just can’t argue with concentration of this order, and if you leave the wine to settle in the mouth, it finishes with a magnificent flourish of all of the refined, oak-forest notes I associate with Brunello at its best. Certainly a wine to try cellaring, and whenever you open it you will find things to enjoy. 16