Nicolas Belfrage: Medium-deep, with some turn. Not strong on aroma; in mouth, it has firm acidity and requisite tannin but not the spark that makes top Brunello. All very correct. Drink from 2015. 14.5

Stephen Brook: Relatively light color, which doesn’t matter, and the aromas, while perfumed, are a bit candied, like maraschino cherries. Soft and forward, lush and creamy, but it lacks some bite and drive. The tannins are ripe but a bit assertive, since there isn’t quite enough fruit to absorb them. It also fades on the aftertaste and lacks persistence and harmony. Will it come together with more bottle age? I’m not convinced. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Clear black-red. Graceful, enticing, and creamy, this is a Brunello of ballerina-like aromatic appeal, with lots of almost resinous lift over a softly sweet, almost chocolaty undertow. Deep, pure, long; engaging, concentrated, and focused. A wine of immense poise and charm, in which the aromatic constituents infuse the weight (medium-bodied, no more) of fruit in the mouth. A very assured performance and treacherously easy to drink. Not quite the heights of ambition, and there is a faint drying as the foot comes off the pedal at the end of the palate, but the bottles of this wine will provide immense pleasure over the next decade. 16