Jesús Barquín: Medium amber to intense golden color. The nose gives crème brûlée; the palate shows a tad too much volatile acidity. Long and full of character. 19

Simon Field: Dense rich pineapple color, with dense spicy mid-palate; firm and quite discrete finish; elegant and long. 16

Jancis Robinson: Pale orange. Glowing. Lively and fresh and with real excitement and dry finish. Grapes left hanging at the end of the war, botrytis; a one-off; some real excitement. Drink 1965–95. 17