Jesús Barquín: An impressive wine that grows further with air. Lovely balance, with a spicy harmony and a caramel note. Very long and intense on the palate; endless finish, with tannins that are still resolving. 19

Simon Field: Full of color, careless of chronology, dense of intent; smoky, peaty character; malty finish. Well made, and its colors held firm to the mast. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Very dark crimson. Just the slightest hint of something a little rank. Cough medicine and mint on the nose. Then a bit astringent and mousey on the palate. A bit dead. Drink 1965–95. 15