Jesús Barquín: Peppercorn notes remind Luis Gutiérrez of roasted suckling pig. The palate is well structured, suggesting truly remarkable youthfulness for the wine’s age. It grows in the glass. 17

Simon Field: Ruby to garnet, with a nose that recalls olives and currants; hints of graphite. Complex and delicious. Palate has definition, a smoky intensity, very fine acidity, and a powerful yet dignified finish. La force tranquille. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Dark crimson. There still seems to be some oak on the nose here! But not in a bad way. Very firm and confident and beautifully balanced in savory mode. Spreads right across the palate. Great delicacy. Majestic wine in the St-Julien idiom of beautiful balance. Masses of ripe fruit but all contained in a great corset. Seems indomitable. Drink 1990–2025. 19