Alison Buchanan: Black garnet to a tawny rim, this offers an array of spice on the nose, pepper and nutmeg to the fore, with black fruit layered with cream. The palate presents an attractive balance of treacle and cinnamon-scented fruitcake. The finish, a little short, reduces the score. 15

Jancis Robinson: Red/garnet. Warm, spicy, a little bit ‘sweaty’? Decent spicy fruit, but the ‘sweaty’ drying out is on the finish. Drink up soon. 14

Jeremy Watson: Same as the 1995 Marqués de Vitoria Tinto Gran Reserva and the Faustino Tinto Gran Reserva – perfectly good and drinkable but very disappointing, and hardly good value for money. 14