Jesús Barquín: Rounder than the 1973, it retains a vegetable whiff (green beans, artichoke) in a lighter way. The palate is round and well focused, youthful and long. Excellent now, with a bright future ahead. 18.5

Simon Field: Spanish gold, fittingly, nose almost tropical, etched with vanillin. Palate has almond essence, a little quince, and a long beach of heady memories. Therefore, it needs time! 17

Jancis Robinson: Mid-gold. Rich and vegetal on the nose, rich and round and tangy. But gosh, you have to be a fan to love this! Waxy. More weight and fruit than the 1973. But still quite a trial. Astringent end. Drink 1990–2015. 16