Jesús Barquín: A vegetal reductive nose of green beans and artichoke, which eventually fade away, leaving evident smoky notes. Very savory palate; youthful, greenish right now. Has a long future ahead. 17

Simon Field: Golden core, pale rim; smoky bacon, gentle vegetation, hint of mushroom, palate has linseed, artichoke, and firm elegant palate; young before its time. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Pale to mid-gold. Light nose reminiscent of stewed cabbage but “interesting”! Medium-bodied. Low acid. Fades rather fast. Chewy end. Apparently eternal. Drink 1990–2020. 15