Tim Atkin: Mid-ruby/garnet. Ripe, fig-jam nose, with evident alcohol. Palate a little flat and underwhelming, with the tannins drying out the fruit 10

Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, virtually opaque. Nose of no great character; perhaps needs to develop. Palate better: plenty of damson and black cherry fruit, with balancing acidity and firm but not excessive tannins. Bittersweet finish; typical but lacking somewhat in charm 14

Bruno Besa: Black core to thin garnet rim. Complex yet closed nose, with dark, layered, mature black fruit and hints of cigar box and oriental spices. Very full body but balanced and long, with intense spicy character and poise. A great southern red, with great aging potential 18