Andrew Jefford: Deep walnut, with a green hue to the rim. Refined, sweet, choice apple and bay leaf, dried peach, and beef jerky. Not even the faintest hint of spirit. A wonderfully engaging compost, with almost emotional force. There’s a little toffee behind, but nothing vulgar or obvious at all. Nonetheless, it doesn’t have the sublimity of [Osborne y Ca Rare Sherry Palo Cortado Solera]. This is, in fact, a dry wine; I’m not quite sure how it came to be in our tasting. It’s very good dry wine, with lots of basmatirice complexities, though the sweeter fruits the nose suggested haven’t, in fact, made it. Profoundly oxidative, but good stuff 15

Richard Mayson: Deep mahogany-red with an olive-green rim; lifted but not especially pungent on the nose: hint of molasses. Clean, rich both on the nose and on the palate, but rather dry and dusty in style, the fruit having completely faded. Still packs a powerful, tangy punch on the finish—rich and savory, somewhat rustic, but in a positive sense. Old, dry Oloroso in style 17 Jancis Robinson: Dark tawny, with yellow-green rim. There is some decay on the nose. And masses of acidity. Hardly tastes sweet at all. Woody finish. Reminds me a bit of those old Soviet wines I tasted in Russia. Baked and a bit tired. Drink 1990–2000 15