Jesús Barquín: Mahogany. The nose shows the wine’s age but in a somewhat muted way, with a lactic sweetish note that is later confirmed by the palate. From my standpoint (being fonder of the wild and racy), this ever so slightly abocato profile robs character. Endless finish, with obvious old age. Subjectively, I must penalize the gentler mouthfeel. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep walnut. Harmonious and refined, with no trace of obtrusive caskiness, and since I intuit that this again is one of the oldest and most time-burnished wines, then that is a considerable achievement. This is pure, polished, ethereal, and lovely: a symphony of apricot and olive, of dried cèpe and veal stock, of library wood and calfskin bindings. On the palate, it is very intense and long, but wonderfully composed. As with the aromas, there is something truly symphonic here but without any of the elements obtruding. As an Amontillado, it is indeed very deep, fur-lined and ermine-caped, but it has the diagnostic vivacity at its core. Wonderful meditative sipping. Everything in balance: aldehyde, acid, extract, dried-fruit traces, time’s own juices and essences. Hats off! 19

Richard Mayson: Deep amber, with an olive-green rim; rich, concentrated, not as pungent as some, but underlying power, depth, and intensity evident; lovely full, meaty-casky intensity; the casky edge does not detract from the overall power. impressive and distinguished. 18.5