Tim Atkin: Pale to mid-straw. Aromatic, wild Mediterranean herbs on the nose. Hard to believe this is Pinot Grigio, since it’s got so much character. Medium-bodied, spicy, with attractive apple and pear fruit, crisp acidity, a lift of volatility, and a long refreshing finish. About as good as Pinot Grigio gets 17.5

Nicolas Belfrage: 1 = color of water and 9 = deep gold: Col 3 (a touch ramato). Full slightly perfumed nose, which leads you in. Palate is archetypal: weighty but balanced. Plenty of varietal character, good length. Warning: It may give Pinot Grigio a good name 17

Alex Hunt: Alongside the expected notes of pear and spice, there is an intriguing smoky note here that heads off any threat of overrichness from the intense dried-peach aroma. The palate is taut yet generous, setting up a brilliant tension that lasts from entry to finish 17.5