Andrew Jefford: Full yellow-gold; gentle mousse. A rich, fresh fruit mix; admirable lift and primary engagement for a wine almost 14 years old. A touch of butter, but just a touch—cold butter, not melted. On the palate, this is deep, structured, mouth-filling, bright, and poised; the classic green-apple and ivy-leaf flavors are long and vinous. A very firm, large-scaled blanc de blancs that, nonetheless, maintains its poise and chic. The dosage is well judged, rounding the palate without fogging it. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Beautifully soft and silky mousse, with light notes of toast wafting through gently rich, yeast-complexed fruits. Perfect to drink now but gives the feeling that it is not going down and will continue to age gracefully. 19 :