Andrew Jefford: Pale to mid-gold; evanescent mousse. Well preserved alongside some of its peers, though a little bit stiff and raw in character, a little taut and green and austere. Some of the others are almost too evolved, but with this wine’s aroma you wonder why it hasn’t done more. On the palate, it is green, taut, and tight. Youthful, yes; concentrated, yes; lots of incision, but a slightly green sherbetty character and lack of generosity in the final analysis. 14.5

Tom Stevenson: So pale with such pure, juicy peach. I cannot understand why this Champagne has not aged, has not even mellowed! 17.5